We all define a challenge in different ways, and no I’m not going to start with a dictionary extract. As I was scrolling through paddle boarding videos on Youtube one night I came across a vlog by Will at the SUP Boarder Magazine who’s documented his 60 mile journey through the Great Glen in Scotland. Months I re-played his adventure and got really inspired. “A long distance SUP expedition” – this was way out of my league! Even a 6 mile paddle on the Shropshire Union Canal knackered me out!
My SUP background
I was introduced to stand up paddle boarding a couple of years ago on a beginner’s lesson on holiday in Greece. I absolutely hated the experience , falling in the water countless times, losing the paddle, aching calves and trying to keep balanced on the wobbly Ionian Sea. Some of my friends had purchased their own iSUPs and attended lessons at home and I loved watching the freedom paddle boarding provided. I gave it another go, took the plunge and bought my first board. This was an entirely new activity for me bringing friends together and just simply having a laugh. Through peer learning and self teaching, my confidence began to grow as we regularly get together on Llyn Padarn in Llanberis, north Wales. Last year, I got to a point where I felt I needed some structured coaching so I booked an improver session with Sian who runs Psyched Paddleboarding who are specialists in paddleboarding and offer lessons and guided tours in Snowdonia. With my new improved skills, my passion for SUPing grew even more exploring new lakes, joining a Friday night social paddle down the Menai Strait, attending a navigation course with Dave at AcwaTerra to recently doing the WSA instructor training with Sian.
What’s happening to me?
There’s no way I could paddle across an entire country! Living in the foothills of Snowdonia is something I’ve always taken for granted. It was only January this year I finally made it to the top of Snowdon (at 32 years old…shaming I know). Living with the outdoors as your back garden is just part of normal life here and I’m not a sporty, hard-core outdoorsy, campervan, wild camping type of person. I have a 9-5, enjoy socialising, music, shopping and travelling. The outdoors is just there- I see it and live around it every day and yes of course I walk the hills and mountains with the dog and my partner. My growing passion for SUP has opened new doors and given me an appetite for exploring more land and water. There are so many inspiring stories and images instantly shared at our fingertips these days. Facing the challenge of paddling 60 miles along the Great Glen went straight on the bucket list!
Throughout the planning of this adventure, even on day 1, a voice in my head kept saying “you’ll never do it”, “who are you kidding”, “get a grip, Carwyn”. Yet, there I was after weeks of prepping, standing next to my board at the top of Neptune’s Staircase ready to hit the water. I hated my first SUP encounter in Zante 3 years ago now I was about to tour the length of Scotland. OMG THIS WAS ACTUALLY IT!
Some history to the trail
The Caledonian Canal links the west to the east of Scotland from Fort William to Inverness. It was engineered by Thomas Telford with work starting in 1802 with the route officially opened in 1822. The scheme was to provide employment for impoverished Scots who’d been dispossessed by the Highland clearances and to create a short cut for ships to cross from one side of the country to the other. The canal traverses through the Great Glen offering magnificent scenery across 29 locks and villages which flows adjacent to the Great Glen Way, an ancient fault line through which the canal runs. Today, thousands of people take to this stretch of water every year on paddle crafts. In the late noughties, a multi-agency partnership was established that brought in funding and EU match funding, totalling over £600k to formalise and assist the infrastructure and long term planning of the route. This is how paddlers are now able to enjoy this spectacular trail including the many trailblazer sites dotted along the way.
(Sources: Scottish Canals and Great Caledonian Trail)
Planning my adventure
The majority of paddlers on this route are in canoes or sea kayaks and it typically takes around 3-5 days to complete. Planning and keeping an eye on the forecast are fundamental factors. I didn’t even realise that Lochs were classed as open waters with waves of over 3 metres recorded off Loch Ness. During my trip, the wind conditions on the mighty Ness delayed us by a day.
There are tons of information on the Scottish Canals and Great Glen Canoe Trail websites including a sample plan and map. Although this trail is set up and ready to go, I had to combine all the information and resources and adapt everything for our needs. There was me on the SUP, my partner who walked the Great Glen Way and Dave, his step-dad, who came in his converted sailing canoe.
Initially my aim was to complete the trail in 6 days and paddle no more than 10 miles a day. I thought this was doable considering my experience and that Dave’s canoe could not be sailed on the canals plus the walking distance is much longer than on the water too. Wild camping sites and commercial campsite information helped to plot end points everyday and where to pitch up for the night. One of the most important factor was emergency exit points particularly when we got on the Lochs. Researching and studying Google Maps did help a lot, however, Google Maps isn’t that great when zooming in trying to decipher if a small beach is sandy or rock. BUT! On Google Maps I found that there’s actually a ‘Nessie street view’ option right the way around Loch Ness which was brilliant! On longer paddling days, the journey was split to allow for lunch and a panad (Welsh for cuppa) but just so that we could simply enjoy the whole experience and not race it.
After weeks of planning, drafting, re-drafting, my bits of paper were ready and the holiday date was getting nearer. The blueprint was in place but I knew I had to be flexible and dynamic once up in Scotland.
Saturday– the drive up to bonnie Scotland
After a long drive from Wales, we set up camp at Lochy Holiday Park which is in a beautiful spot just outside Fort William and not far from our launch point at Banavie. The weather was sunny and it was a perfect evening to check our kit, have a ‘wee dram’ and rest before starting off the next day.
Sunday (Day 1): Banavie to Gairlochy
The first stretch of the canal was a gentle 6mile introduction. First thing’s first; I popped over to the canal office at Corpach to collect a facilities key which you can buy for £10 per person which gives you access to toilets, showers and laundry blocks along the trail. All the proceeds go towards cleaning and their upkeep- this was well worth the dosh and a great tip!
We launched at the top of the famous Neptune’s Staircase. There’s a free car park at the bottom of the locks but we managed to bring our vehicles to drop our gear at the top of the locks which avoided the long uphill portage from the car park.
This first phase of the journey was calm with passing boats, paddling through lush corridor of trees before disembarking at Gairlochy. Be mindful of the long portage (about 600 metres) to reach the other side of the lock and the wild camping base here. The camping location was perfect with a picnic table and facilities (toilets, showers, laundry) just on the other side of lock.
Monday (Day 2): Gairlochy to Laggan Locks
This was to be the first long paddle day crossing Loch Lochy, the first loch on this route. Lochy is just as wide as Loch Ness but half the length and 90% of the crossing for us was an upwind challenge! Launching just after 12, I realised how much time it took to pack everything and get on the water particularly the amount of gear Dave brought with him in his canoe. With his sail up, out riggers in place, we entered the loch. The headwind made this crossing immense! There was loads of chop and my shoulders began to ache and my knees were getting sore as I could hardly stand on the board. Paddling against the wind was really tough for the canoe and I thought we lost Dave when he disappeared into a secluded cove. After nearly an hour, we re-joined and made our way to our meeting point at Glas Dhoire trailblazer site for some lunch. This is a stunning beach location with a compost toilet, a 3 sided shelter and ample spaces for tents. I wish we had planned to stay here for the night. After a quick panad, we tackled the final 2.5miles to Laggan before dark. At the last mile, the wind suddenly picked up and I was thrashed from left to right, engulfed by water and nearly collided with the shore. Using all my energy to push through what was probably force 4 or 5 wind I felt totally exposed. I found the experience scary and I was so glad to get on dry land after a difficult exit on the jetty. It’s true what they say about the weather in the Highlands; half an hour later there was hardly a breath of wind and the water was calm as a millpond.
We set up camp at a designated wild camping base on the south side of the lock and headed straight to the ‘Eagle Inn On The Water’ for some food and a well-earned pint. Yes, this is a converted barge pub-restaurant. With leather sofas and a log burner, it’s a must visit! Earlier we saw a bagpipe player welcoming guests on board a luxury river cruise on the other side of the barge. Now we could see them dining away and sipping on Chateaux de Shite as we made our way back to our tents in the dark.
Tip– there’s a toilet and shower block at Laggan Locks accessed with the key
Tuesday (Day 3): Laggan to Kytra Lock
I made a slight change to the original plan as the forecast suggested an upwind by the time we’d arrive at Loch Ness. The canal from Laggan to the start of Loch Oich was the calmest and most picturesque so far. The trees were alive in autumnal colours as I paddled through floating leaves and passed a couple of waterfalls. Loch Oich is the smallest of its neighbouring sisters and by far the most intimate. Luckily there are no portage points before entering Loch Oich. Just after Invergarry castle and a ship wreck, I passed some people we met at Banavie who were on board the Emma Jane, a luxury boat going along the same route. The sun was out when we stopped for lunch at Leitirfearn trailblazer site (on the south shore after the islands) and it was a relief getting off the water just as boat traffic started to increase. (Tip: when passing these islands, keep to the north side as the south side wasn’t passable due to dense aquatic vegetation. Be careful on the north side of the islands of boat traffic.) On our approach off the loch we passed a long queue of boats that had been waiting for nearly 5 hours to get through the swing bring near Bridge of Oich. The delays were caused by staff shortages at Scottish Canals so I got to help some Spanish tourists who didn’t know what was going on. They seemed to make the most of the delay drinking beer and playing cards on the boat deck. With just one lock portage after Loch Oich, we made it to Kytra Lock and to our wild camping base for the night.
Kytra Lock is very small and dead cute. There are no facilities here, just a fab wild camping site in the trees over on the south side of the canal. Under the trees by the campfire, we enjoyed a panad and some cakes given to us by our friends on the Emma Jane . Tip– don’t forget to pack the midge repellent- they were out in force!
Wednesday (Day 4): Laggan to Fort Augustus
As the weather had changed our original plan, this was a very short paddle day of just under 3 miles. We stayed in Fort Augustus to wait for the down-wind forecast due the next day and the day after. Fort Augustus has a huge 750 metre downhill portage across a main road to the shores of Loch Ness. We dropped the canoe at the launch site and I was so grateful for the carry strap that came with my board. Tip– stick to the two bag rule!
There are no wild camping sites at Fort Augustus so we checked in with our tents at Loch Ness Highland Resort, 10mins walk from the village centre. It was a great place to camp with excellent facilities. Fort Augustus is a bustling little village at the heart of the Great Glen, full of boaters and tourists. There are plenty of places to eat, drink and restock supplies. Check out the Bothy pub and the Loch Inn!
Thursday (Day 5): Fort Augustus to Foyers
So, the day finally arrived to conquer Loch Ness! Would I see Nessie? I had plenty of time to find out. At last we had prevailing winds and Dave’s canoe sailed away out of view in front of me . The conditions were excellent and it was an awesome force 3/4 thrusting me to the half way mark at Knockie Lodge for lunch. Loch Ness is massive! It’s so big I couldn’t even see the other end. With stunning scenery all around, the overwhelming size of the loch making me feel tiny on my inflatable island. I was truly impressed with how well Starsky the Starboard was coping with the strong upwind conditions on Loch Lochy and now with some surf on Loch Ness.
We arrived at Foyers earlier than planned. I was impressed we covered 10 miles in just 4 hours (inc 30 mins lunch break). Unfortunately, the trailblazer site is now shut as people were trespassing to the adjacent campsite to use their facilities. We stayed at Loch Ness Shores Camping and Caravanning Club and it’s a perfect location with its own beach to get in and out of the water. Their facilities are shamazingly luxurious! We had chilli and rice for dinner (and raspberry cheesecake for pudding of course!) and a scrumptious breakfast bap from the on-site trailer café. A must visit is to the The Craigdaroch Inn which is around a 20 mins uphill walk from the campsite.
Friday (Day 6): Foyers to Dores
We left early that morning in gentler prevailing wind conditions than yesterday. We took a break just after passing Drumnadrochit and Urquhart Castle on a small beach on the south shore for some soup and taking in the magnificent scenery. Still no sign of Nessie though…
This half of the Loch was much busier with boat traffic creating a lot of big wakes as I paddled along the south shore into Dores. We camped in the woods at the far end of the beach and as you probably guessed, there are no facilities. At sunset, we awed at the amazing views down towards Fort Augustus and got a real sense of how far we’d traveled. We headed over to the The Dores Inn on the other side of the beach for some overdue burger and chips…and some Scottish gin of course!
Saturday (Day 7): A day at Dores
Further changes to the plan meant we stayed in Dores for two nights to allow Dave time to pick up his car to collect the canoe. Earlier in the trip, Dave found paddling the canal sections quite strenuous. As the final 10 mile stretch to Inverness is nearly all in the canal, Dave decided to end his journey in Dores. Luckily, the annual ‘Monster the Loch’ race kept us entertained as we watched a multitude of paddle crafts arrive on the beach from Fort Augustus. We even witnessed some south Walians who made it all the way on a pedalo! Bucket list for next year perhaps?
The wild camping spot nestled in the woods here was certainly the wildest on this adventure. Tip: Dores beach is mainly made up of large rocks and pebbles. For our final evening here , we had fish and chips at the pub, a fire on the beach and some hot chocolate whilst looking forward to completing the last leg in the morning.
Sunday (Day 8): Dores to Inverness- the final stretch!
I felt a bit melancholy leaving this charming little beach that morning. This was it- the last 10 miles and I needed to get to Inverness in time to catch the 3pm bus back to Fort William. Leaving Loch Ness at Lochend just round the corner from Dores was a welcome sight! Traversing through the tiny Loch Dochfour felt like forever before getting back on the canal. Tip: look out here for the massive weir! I grabbed a quick panad and some porridge at the last lock at Dochgaroch as tiredness was setting in before completing the last 4.5 miles. I reminded myself what I’d achieved up to that point but the end was so near yet so far… Paddling the final couple of miles was like going through treacle on the calm canal. Tip: Look out for Tomnahurich Bridge on the approach to the Inverness- it’s a very, very low bridge so low I had to lie down to get under it.
The end was in sight as I saw Rich at the top of the lock in Inverness. My shoulders were aching but I MADE IT! Getting off the water was exciting and a huge sense of accomplishment came over me. I passed some locals on the tow path who asked about my trip, one admired my achievement and another had never seen someone on a ‘surf board’ before. After a quick dash to the canal office to drop off the facilities key, it was emotional packing up Starsky the board. I gave him a quick rinse and told him how proud I was for completing this journey.
The bus station is a twenty minute walk to the centre of Inverness. Fatigue hit me like a sack of bricks as soon as I sat on the bus for the 2 hour journey back to Fort William. I updated my Instagram with stinging eyes listening to the bus driver announcing the stops along the way. I reflected on the whole adventure peering at the views with half open eyes. The ride back to Fort William was incredibly bitter sweet retracing our 8 day journey in just two hours. I felt absolutely ecstatic!
That evening we stayed at Glen Nevis Caravan and Camping Park and booked in to one of their glamping pods. No more sleeping on a burst air mattress for me- I needed a comfy bed and a long overdue shower!
So…
This was my first long distance SUP adventure and a huge personal challenge. It took me out of my comfort zone by getting truly outdoors and reconnecting with nature. We usually holiday in Scotland in the autumn but earlier this year we lost someone very dear to us. This trip had a huge element of sadness as it was the first holiday without Rich’s mum and Dave’s wife, Andrea, and this was constantly at the back of my mind. She absolutely loved Scotland and would have been tremendously proud of our achievements. A true optimist, she would always say to grasp every opportunity in life saying things like ‘to hell with it’ or to do whatever makes you happy.
I had huge self doubts whilst planning for this expedition even right up to the start of the journey. Did it meet my expectations? Totally! Would I do it again? Absolutely! Did I learn anything? Shit loads! Most importantly, I proved to myself that I’m capable of doing more physically challenging activities than previously thought possible. I even loved wild camping! My first long distance SUP adventure was absolutely epic; being in the outdoors in awesome scenery, experiencing things from a different perspective, being away from normal daily life, it even felt surreal coming back to civilisation in Inverness. The whole point of the challenge was to get me off my arse and try something completely new on my SUP. It was an opportunity to explore my skills, get out of my comfort zone and pushing new boundaries. Whilst standing on a paddle board for the very first time 3 years ago, I never imagined I’d be sharing my adventure hoping to inspire more SUPers to enjoy this amazing route. It’s a perfect trail for SUPs with a mix of different water conditions and the most beautiful scenery. Without doubt, SUP adventure is something I’ll be exploring more of!
SOME OF MY TOP TIPS
- Plan, plan, plan. Fail to prepare, prepare to fail. Plan as best as you can and be dynamic-the weather and changes in circumstances can be major influences.
- Try getting some training. Training courses I’ve attended all helped for this adventure. Enjoy the learning, consolidate and use your new skills.
- Canals- learn the canal ‘highway code’. Paddle on the right hand side and watch out for other water users and wakes
- 2 bag rule. I had one bag at the front and one at the back of my board which was adequate especially for portaging. Remember, if you don’t need it, don’t take it. Pack light!
- Be environmentally conscience- we didn’t take a single plastic water bottle and used a water filter and a ‘Water to Go’ bottle. Use facilities where you can: taps, toilets… Leave no trace.
- Canal Facilities- for £10 per person you can get access to the facility blocks along the route. Collect / drop off the key at the canal offices in Corpach (Fort William) or Seaport marina (Inverness).
MY KIT
- Starboard Deluxe Double Chamber Touring board, 2 x paddles (1 as spare), pump, spare fin and extra leash
- Peak UK : cag, dry trousers, shorts and pfd www.peakuk.com
- Aquapac: 70L dry bag, 70L Upano duffle and phone pouch (www.aquapac.com)
- Vango Nevis 300 tent (www.millets.com)
- Berghaus Transition 200 sleeping bag
- Jetboil flash
- Water-to-Go bottle
- Emergency PAYG phone, torch, lighter, power bank charger
- Food – separately packed, large tin cup, cooking bowl and spork
- Clothes- minimal and only essentials.
My SUPing life 